The Rise of Rodarte

After stunning audiences New York’s RTW shows with their fantastical juxtapositions of tainted glam-goth and ethereal elegance, Rodarte have secured first place in the fracas for this season’s label to lust over.

It can be argued that signature style, the ability to create that instantly recognizable keynote reoccurring subtly but with a charming potency collection after collection, is the secret to a designer’s lasting success, a la Marc Jacobs’s layering, Pucci’s vivid colours or Chloe’s safari neutrals. Rodarte, relatively fresh on the scene (founded in 2005 by young sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy) instantly seized upon the Amazonian trend, adopting it in their uniquely sophisticated manner awash with Literary and Historical nods inspired by their respective degree disciplines.

The archetypal fierceness of Amazonian style was white-washed and assigned a fresh femininity throughout their exquisitely delicate Spring 2009 collection, remaining in peek-a-boo flashes such as the diamond cut-out leggings – now acclaimed as a cult-classic – and striking warrior platform sandals created in collaboration with Nicholas Kirkwood. Despite making headlines when they caused model Abbey Lee to fall on the catwalk, the notorious death-trap heels have returned time after time, undeterred, in later collections.

“Sometimes you have to sacrifice your performance for high heels…” – Gwen Stefani.

Balancing the toughness on the lower-sections were flirtatiously feminine pleats, netting and ruching in muted nudes which achieved an intriguing balance between wearability and luxe craftsmanship. The softness of each ensemble was pinched, cinched and bound with corsetry resembling medical bandaging and chillingly clinical white patent belts. Structured metallic tailoring combined with nude leather bomber jackets punked-up the collection, modelled by 2009’s catwalk darling Agnes Deyn, whose acid blonde crop and androgynous silhouette created the perfect match for the collection. Flashes of colour were added mainly through bold dashes of apricot, violet and terracotta makeup adding a delicious summery freshness and a subtle hint towards the more vibrant palette of the 2010 collection.

The combination of English rose elegance with sultry glam-goth has led Rodarte to encompass both the classic and the edgy extremes of the celebrity spectrum. Followers include Keira Knightly and Natalie Portman as well as Rihanna, Dita Von Teese, Tilda Swinton and Cate Blanchett.

Knightely in an asymetric Grecian Rodarte drape dress at the premiere of Atonement

Rihanna recently punked-up a pair of the trademark diamond leggings with a leather cropped jacket and all-black patent accessories, and it was towards this darker, gothic direction that the Rodarte pendulum swung at the NY RTW Spring 2010 shows. The distinguishable silhouettes from 2009 provided the trademark Amazonian basenote, but were blackened, singed and charred removing any last traces of pastel prettiness from the previous collection. Reminiscent of a beautifully eerie Tim Burton nightmare, nymph-like models appeared draped in feathered, fringed and shredded Gothic layers, revealing slender arms covered with Amazonian inspired body art. As each creation emerged amidst a theatrically Sleepy Hollow-esque puff of luminous dry ice the final line-up undoubtedly formed one of the most pulled-together, polished and breathtaking shows this season.

Highlights included the exquisite fringed wrap-dress, (below) unique in its trend-setting ‘New Monochrome’ colour combination of black against iced flesh-tones, and the cut-out cropped metallic bomber jacket interwoven with flashes of mauve, petrol blue and apricot.

The Rise of Rodarte, it seems, looks set to continue for as long as women seek empowerment and attitude from their wardrobes. Trademark pieces such as the diamond cut-out leggings are available now from Harvey Nichols, prices starting at £565.